You're standing in front of your stash, pattern in hand, wondering: do I grab something stretchy or something woven for this? Sound familiar? Half the emails we get at rijstextiles.com start exactly like this. Someone wants to sew a comfy t-shirt or a flowy dress and just isn't sure whether jersey fabric is the right pick, or if they should reach for a woven instead. It's one of those questions that seems simple until you actually stand at the cutting table with scissors in hand.

The truth is, jersey behaves nothing like a woven cotton or a crisp linen, and that difference changes everything about how a garment fits, moves and feels against your skin. In this piece we'll walk through what makes jersey fabrics tick, how they stack up against other fabric families, and which variety suits which project. We'll also give you some real sewing tips so your next knit project doesn't end up wonky at the hem.

What Makes Jersey Different

Jersey is a knit, not a woven. That's the whole story in one sentence, but let's unpack it a bit. Woven fabrics like linen fabrics are made from threads crossing over and under each other at right angles, which gives them structure but almost zero give. Knits, on the other hand, are made from interlocking loops, the same principle as your grandma's hand-knit sweater but done on a machine with much finer yarn. Those loops are what give jersey its stretch and its soft drape.

This is exactly why jersey feels so different on the body. A woven shirt holds its shape and needs darts and zippers to fit curves. A jersey top just stretches around you. That's why it's the go-to for t-shirts, leggings, loungewear and baby clothes. It breathes well, it doesn't wrinkle like linen does, and it recovers its shape after stretching, provided it has a bit of elastane in the mix. Compare that to fleece fabrics, which are also knits but brushed on one or both sides for warmth rather than stretch, and you start to see how many knit personalities actually exist.

The Different Types of Jersey (and When to Use Them)

Cotton Jersey Fabric

This is the one everyone starts with, and for good reason. Cotton jersey is soft, breathable, and forgiving to sew, which makes it the natural first knit project for anyone who's only worked with wovens before. Think basic tees, pyjama sets or a simple dress for summer.

French Terry Fabric

Loopy on the inside, smooth on the outside, French terry gives you that cosy sweatshirt feel without the bulk of fleece. It's brilliant for joggers, hoodies and casual dresses you actually want to live in.

Ottoman Rib Jersey Fabric

With its raised horizontal ribs, this one adds texture and a bit more structure than a plain jersey. It works beautifully for fitted skirts, cardigans and pieces where you want some visual interest without switching to a woven.

Punta di Milano Fabric

This is your fabric when you need drape with a bit more body, think smart-casual dresses or blazers that still feel soft against the skin. It holds a seam nicely, which makes it a favourite for anyone moving into more tailored knitwear.

Scuba Crepe Jersey Fabric

Thicker, with a slight structure of its own, scuba crepe is great for pieces that need to hold shape, like a peplum top or a structured dress that still moves with you.

Pointelle Fabric

With its delicate open-work pattern, pointelle brings a romantic touch to baby clothes and summer tops. It's lightweight, so it works nicely layered too.

Viscose Jersey Fabric

Silky and fluid, viscose jersey drapes like a dream, which makes it a natural pick for wrap dresses and blouses that need to skim the body rather than cling.

Bamboo Jersey Fabric

Super soft and naturally breathable, bamboo jersey is a lovely choice for anyone with sensitive skin, or for baby and loungewear projects where comfort matters most.

Waffle Knit Jersey Fabric

That textured grid pattern isn't just decorative, it traps air and adds warmth, which is why waffle knit turns up so often in cosy robes and casual tops.

Rib Knit Jersey Fabric

This is your fabric for cuffs, necklines and fitted bodycon pieces, since it hugs the body closely and bounces back into shape every time.

Practical Tips for Sewing Jersey at Home

  • Use a ballpoint or stretch needle, never a sharp one, or you'll end up with tiny holes and skipped stitches.
  • Stabilise shoulder seams with a strip of clear elastic or fusible tape so they don't stretch out over time.
  • A walking foot helps feed knit layers evenly and stops that annoying tunnel-vision puckering.
  • Test your stretch stitch or narrow zigzag on a scrap first, tension settings vary a lot between machines.
  • Wash your fabric before cutting, jersey can shrink more than wovens, especially cotton jersey.
  • Pin sparingly or use clips, pins can leave marks and distort the knit while you sew.

How to Choose Between Jersey and Other Fabrics

Ask yourself what the garment needs to do. If it needs to stretch, move and breathe, like activewear, underwear or everyday tees, jersey wins every time. If you need structure, sharp pleats or a tailored silhouette, a woven from our fashion fabrics range is the better route. Curtains, cushions and upholstery projects call for something entirely different again, which is where deco fabrics come in. There's no wrong choice here, just the right fabric family for the job.

Final Thoughts

Once you understand what jersey actually is, a knit rather than a woven, it becomes so much easier to decide when to reach for it and when to look elsewhere. Start simple with a cotton jersey tee, then work your way toward ribs, ottomans or viscose drapes as your confidence grows. And keep an eye on our fabric outlet and cheap fabrics pages, that's where the wholesale-style prices live, so you can experiment with new knits without emptying your wallet.

FAQ

Can I use a regular sewing machine for jersey, or do I need an overlocker?

A regular sewing machine works fine, just use a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag and a ballpoint needle. An overlocker gives cleaner seams and finishes faster, but it's not required to get started.

Why does my jersey seam look wavy after sewing?

That usually happens when the fabric gets stretched while feeding through the machine. Try a walking foot, reduce your presser foot pressure if your machine allows it, and avoid pulling the fabric as you sew.

Which jersey is best for beginners?

Cotton jersey is the easiest to start with. It's stable enough to handle, doesn't slip around too much, and forgives small mistakes better than slippery knits like viscose.

Is fleece the same as jersey?

No, fleece is brushed for warmth and has little to no stretch compared to jersey. They're both knits, but they serve very different purposes, fleece for cosy layers and jersey for stretchy, fitted garments.